by Richard Foss
When I saw the name Savoria Mélange Bistro on a restaurant sign, I was bemused by the first word. How could it be that I never knew that there was a term for a place where you go to savor things? Was it French, Italian, or from somewhere else? When I checked the internet, it was one of those rare searches that brought up very few hits – a Northern Italian family name, a small food company in Indonesia, and two restaurants, one just north of Cleveland, Ohio, and the other in San Pedro.
I wondered whether the Savoria Mélange Bistro in San Pedro was owned by an Italian with that surname, because the restaurant does serve some Italian items, but that is not the case. The owners are Erik Sarahanian and Atousa Valaie, who are respectively Armenian and Persian, and the food they serve is more relevant to the second word in the restaurant’s name, not the first. There are items from their heritage on the menu, like kebabs and hummus, but they’re outnumbered by Mediterranean fusion and American dishes.
The space has upscaled considerably from the days when this was Rocco’s, an East Coast Italian joint that served decent but not exceptional food. The formerly sparsely decorated walls now sport modern sculptures, and the harsh lighting has been replaced by fixtures that resemble star clusters in space telescope photos. It’s one of the prettiest rooms in the area.
During several visits, I have tried a substantial percentage of the menu, with generally impressive results. Every meal starts with a gimmick, but a very pretty one – a candle made of butter with a few little squares of warm rosemary focaccia. If you wait for the butter to melt enough to dip the bread, the bread has cooled, but it’s a fun signature item.
Among the starters we tried were the mac and cheese, truffle fries, and loaded hummus (topped with sliced ribeye, chickpeas, tomato, red onion, parsley, and garlic). Hummus is made in many different ways, from stiff and slightly grainy to almost liquid, and with varying levels of oiliness and spice. This one was midrange in flavor and texture, relatively low on the oil and garlic, with a creamy texture. The loaded version has a nice balance of flavors and textures, and I’d recommend it as a shared item or light meal. It comes with warm pita, but I dipped some of the focaccia and liked that even better.
The mac and cheese is topped with bacon and hot Cheeto dust. We asked them to leave off the Cheetos. If you like the American classic, a rich cheese flavor accented by smoky meat, this is a solid choice. I was surprised that this isn’t offered as a side with kebabs or a steak, and would suggest that the management consider it. As for the fries, they hit the table crisp and with just a delicate scent and flavor of mushroom truffle oil, a nice change from places that use this ingredient to excess.
Good as the other starters were, the salads outshone them. Though the Caesar was just the standard item competently made, the pomegranate-cabbage and the beet with apples and walnuts were outstanding. Beet salads with fruit and nuts aren’t unusual these days, but the honey-balsamic dressing ties the other flavors together perfectly. The pomegranate had an unlikely assortment of flavors, with cabbage, bell pepper, pecans, cilantro, and goat cheese in a pomegranate-orange vinaigrette. The sharp flavors of pepper and cilantro were balanced by the fruitiness and vinegar, and we kept tasting different combinations of flavor up to the last bite.
The entrees at Savoria Mélange are eclectic and include sandwiches and flatbread pizzas that are probably most popular at lunch, and pastas, kebabs, and other heftier entrees. The pizzas are slightly unusual, with a medium-thick crust that I thought might be whole wheat based on the bready texture, but it’s apparently a standard flour was used. I ordered the “Ameri-Med fusion” with sliced ribeye, mushrooms, mozzarella, provolone, parmesan, and garlic sauce – the small amount of tomato sauce that is brushed on the crust isn’t listed on the menu, but it’s there. For a pizza with three types of cheese, it isn’t very cheesey – a little more would have improved the mouthfeel and would have helped hold the ingredients in place so they didn’t fall off. The garlic sauce that seemed to have a yoghurt base worked nicely with the mushrooms and steak, making the name more apt. There are no pizzas remotely like this served in Italy, but that obviously was not what was intended.
On the other hand, any Southern Italian might be proud to serve the Savoria Mélange pasta, bucatini topped with roasted eggplant, mushrooms, tomato, and goat cheese in a tomato mascarpone sauce. Mascarpone is a Northern Italian cheese, but someone in Naples or Sicily would probably use a local equivalent to get a very similar effect. Chef Erik can nail French flavors too, and we were impressed by the richness and authenticity of the beef Bourguignon, beef, bacon, and vegetables stewed in red wine. This is a warming winter dish of comfort food that you can enjoy any time of year. The portion is impressively large, and if you indulge in starters then you should expect to take some home.
And finally, to the kebabs, which are a popular item from India to Greece, and differently seasoned across that great expanse of the globe. In some places a coating of char on the exterior is savored, in others a sign that the chef was careless, and the correct seasoning ingredients and their volumes can be a matter of debate. Persians often use tart sumac, black pepper, and turmeric, while Armenian kebabs can be very garlicky and flavored with green herbs, and I was curious to see which heritage would dominate here. Surprisingly, it was neither – the beef kebabs were evidently marinated with mild seasonings and were cooked to medium-rare so the meat was browned and lightly smoke-flavored. The chicken was cooked just to doneness so that the meat was very juicy – many restaurants prepare chicken kebabs so they have a leathery exterior, but not here. They are served with a large green pepper and a tomato, both roasted, your choice of rice or fries, and small portions of hummus, pickled red cabbage, and garlic sauce.
The wine list at Savoria Mélange is not long but is well chosen, and the markups are moderate. Stop by during happy hour (before 6 p.m.) and there are bargains to be had. If you prefer to bring your own, corkage is $25 per bottle.
The only dessert offered was a ricotta pistachio cake, and since I particularly enjoy pistachios I approved of this thoroughly. A chocolate item as an alternative might be nice, but as portions here are hefty, many people won’t have room anyway. Savoria Mélange gives you a lot of bang for the buck, and our bills averaged under $60 for dinners with wine in pleasant surroundings. This ambitious little restaurant lives up to their name very well, and deserves success.
Savoria Mélange is at 1902 S. Pacific in San Pedro. Open 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. Tues. — Thu. 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Fri. — Sat. Closed Sun., Mon. Small parking lot and street parking. Wine and beer served. Noise level low. Some vegetarian items. (424) 264-5389. Savoriamelange.com. Pen
