It’s the first opening in the Beach Cities in years where they serve dishes that might have delighted Sinatra and the Rat Pack.
A few years ago, I was discussing with a restaurant consultant the way most places try to attract young, hip diners,when he suddenly demanded, “How long has it been since a restaurant opened serving classic American food, someplace where the point was to get a good steak or seafood in an environment where you could hear yourself think?”
It had been decades, but we may have to reset the clock. Nick’s at the Metlox Plaza isn’t exactly a recreation of the old school steakhouses that once dotted this area. The decor is too sleek, and the view into the kitchen is a modern touch. Still, it’s the first opening in the Beach Cities in years where they serve prime rib, fried chicken, cioppino, and other dishes that might have delighted Sinatra and the Rat Pack. They do know what century it is. You can get a kale and quinoa salad or shrimp taquitos, and the deviled eggs have been fried in a panko crust and topped with bacon, the wonder food of the 21st century.
Sometimes the modern reinvention of a classic reminds you what you like about the original, and it was just so with those deviled eggs. The yolk had been mixed with what tasted like mustard and a dash of horseradish, a nice spicy mix that went well with the bacon and could have been an effective contrast to the cool, refreshing egg white. Frying that in panko crumbs, as had been done here, changed that dynamic, and not in a way my companion and I liked. The crisp crust was a novelty, but it came at the expense of heating the white and adding oiliness.
On the other hand, the very contemporary kale and quinoa salad with red grapes, sunflower seeds, parmesan, and almonds used modern ideas to create a classic balance. Green salads with grapes, cheese, and nuts are no big deal, but the effect here was subtly different from the usual. The parmesan, quinoa, and nuts added a robustness to counter the slightly bitter kale and delicate champagne vinaigrette and grapes, so instead of the contemporary sweet-and-sour dynamic there was something more robust and full-flavored. I’ve had recreations of salads from ancient Rome that used fruit, nuts, vegetable, and cheese this way, and it was nice to taste an echo of the empire in Manhattan Beach.
The arrow-shaped bar we had seen as we entered had piqued our interest, so we started with cocktails – a “Bitter Ginger” made with bourbon, ginger beer, and orange bitters shaken with egg white, and a “California Poppy” made with vodka, poppy liqueur, thyme, and fizzy lemonade. Both drinks were tasty, and though they used modern ingredients they had an old-fashioned sense of how a drink should be constructed to show off the flavors.
For main courses we chose fried chicken and baby back ribs braised in beer with housemade barbecue sauce. Our server Camille had recommended both highly, and in the case of the chicken the praise was merited. Even though I prefer dark meat on the bone I had to admit that the two boneless breasts had been very well handled, the breading nicely spiced and crisp. I probably would have liked it even better if it had been the traditional half-bird, bones and all, but it was still very good. The biscuit that came with it was very light and had a fluffy interior and the grilled corn was a nice accompaniment. We had asked for the horseradish mashed potatoes rather than plain, but when they arrived we thought the order might not have gone through. There was a faint hint of horseradish if you concentrated, but the flavor was surprisingly timid.
The ribs were unfortunately not the equal of the chicken. They had been overcooked and doused with a very sweet sauce, so both the flavor and texture of the meat were obscured. We had expected a mild sauce, but not this mild. The spice and gentle pepper that balances sweet in any good sauce was missing here. The ribs came with housemade fries, which were fine, and a Thai peanut slaw that was very mild. Neither the peanut nor Thai spices were bold enough to make it worth finishing.
Nick’s has a good by-the-glass list and we enjoyed glasses of Paraduxx and Emeritus Pinot Noirs with our main courses. Camille knows her wines and offered tastes of both, which we appreciated.
For dessert we had a slice of Irish whiskey cake, which was excellent. It was studded with currants and topped with fresh whipped cream.
I returned a few days later for lunch and ordered a ribeye steak sandwich with Swiss cheese and onions served on Parmesan cheese toast. When I asked for it medium-rare my server quizzed me for my definition of the term. Did I actually want it with a cool center or just pink? Some people do have different definitions of the term, and it was to his credit that he asked.
Ribeye isn’t often used for sandwiches because it’s a very juicy steak with a lot of marbling, and though this one had been trimmed it was still very moist. And delicious but a bit messy, something I’d happily have again but wouldn’t order if I was at a business lunch and wearing fancy clothes. The horseradish sauce that was served on the side was very mild. This kitchen should be a bit more bold with spicy flavors if they’re going to offer them at all. They also might consider offering this ribeye as a stand-alone item, since they do a very good job with it.
The menu lists sandwiches as offered with fries, vegetables, or peanut slaw, but a fourth option is available – warm German-style potato salad. This is the one to order, a fresh, delicately oniony salad topped with bacon. The combination with the sandwich was a terrific lunch for under $20.
Nick’s has only been open for a month but runs like a smooth machine. Service was quick but friendly, and everything came out hot and attractively plated, even when the place was full. There is much more to explore on this menu of upscale American classics, a category that they have to themselves in this neighborhood.
Nick’s is at 451 Manhattan Beach Boulevard. Enter parking structures from Morningside. Open daily at 11 a.m. Monday — Wednesday ‘til 10:30 p.m.; Thursday ‘til 10:30 pm; Friday and Saturday ‘til midnight; Sunday ‘til 10 p.m. Full bar, wheelchair access good, patio dining, no corkage on first bottle. Menu at nicksmb.com, phone 310-545-7373.
